Sunday, 14 September 2014

Cinque Terre, Italy

Today Deen and I headed off in different directions: I went with Janine to Cinque Terre and Deen went with Peter to Siena and SanGimignano. We all had terrific days as the accompanying photos will show. Deen is going to do her own blog post.

Cinque Terre is a series of villages on the coast of Italy north of Livorno and we drove past Pisa in the distance to get there. We went through the city of La Spezia and stopped at Porto Venere. From there it was in a boat up the coast.

 

Porto Venere.

 

The coast line from Porto Venere to up to the 5 villages.

 

Coastal mountain top villages.

 

The first village: Riomaggiore

 

Manarola.

Monterosso. A popular beach resort.

There are roads connecting the villages, as well as ferries, and a train. Not so easy to walk between the villages as mountain goat qualities are required but it is doable.

 

 

Another mountain top village , this one visible from the highway on the way back to Livorno.

Tomorrow we stop in Civitavecchia, the port city to Rome. Many people are going there for the day but,as we've all been to Rome, we decided on a tour to Ostia Antica, which was a port during the Roman Empire.

 

Monaco

Last night was the first of the formal nights on board so the four of us got all duded up. A rare sight to actually see me in a shirt and tie these days. However here we are in a photo taken by one of the ship's entertainers, and as it turns out, a very nice guy from Halifax. We enjoyed his show later after dinner.

 

A quick overnight sail and we awoke to the amazing sites of Monaco. However before any pictures a bit of a description. Monaco is a Principality surrounded on 3 sides by France and not too far from Italy. It is about 4 kms long and about 1 km high. It is literally carved out of the side of some very steep hills. It is of course home to and visited by the extremely wealthy as the yachts in the photos show. There are 10 districts in the principality of which Monte Carlo, the home of the famous casino, is one. The palace , the home of Prince Albert, is in another district called Monaco- Ville, also called Rocher de Monaco or The Rock. The citizens of Monaco pay no income tax but there is VAT. Many sites are familiar due to movies like Casino Royale , To Catch A Thief, and Grace of Monaco.

 

The view from our ship this morning when we woke up.

The gardens on the way to the palace.

 

The Palace and we missed the Changing of the Guard at noon.

 

A view from the ramparts next to the palace.

The Casino of Monte Carlo. We went in but no pictures allowed and we didn't go in for gambling. No rich and/or famous people in sight but a lot of tourists. Oh and a bunch of Rolls Royces parked out front.

Finally no series of pictures on Monaco would be complete without at least one yacht. None of them were big enough to hold a helicopter so the really big ones must have been somewhere else.

 

Saturday will see us in Livorno, Italy. Many people are going on tours to Pisa and Florence. As we've been there before Janine and I are going to Cinque Terre and Deen and Peter are going to Siena and San Gimignano.

I'm also having difficulty with the ship wi-fi system so am hoping to find a good wi-fi outlet somewhere in Italy that I can upload my blog postings.

 

Wednesday, 10 September 2014

A correction from Barcelona Day 1

It was pointed out to me by my blog consultant that I had erroneously said there were swans at the Barcelona Cathedral. Really they are geese as the following picture illustrates.

 

 

Barcelona Day 2

 

Our day started with a tour of La Sagrada Familia. We took the subway there and the metro is a very nice and efficient way to move around in Barcalona. We had seen the outside of La Sagrada Familia ( The Sacred Family) in a previous trip here but were not prepared for the stunning inside.

The Sagrada Familia is a project started in the late 1800's and the main architect was Antoni Gaudi. He died in a traffic accident in 1926 and the work has continued using his drawings ever since. It has a theme based on nature. As you can see from the following pictures it is still a work in progress. They hope to have it done by 2026 to honour 100 years from Gaudi's death. The Gaudi influence on architecture can be seem in many other spots throughout Barcelona.

 

 

We had arranged beforehand a local tour guide and he lead us all around the outside of the project then inside.

 

 

We were quite surprised to learn that the building had only befome a church,really a Basilica, in November 2010 when Pope Benedict dedicated it. This is a picture of a picture of the ceremony.

 

After our tour ended we had lunch and decided what to do next. Our plan had been to go to Monserrat but we realized timing for that would not be good. So back on the subway and down to the waterfront area we went. This included a long walk along the boardwalk and a dip in the Balearic Sea.

The view of the city from the waterfront. Montjüic in the background.

 

Peter and I were quite disappointed when the only topless bathers we saw were all guys.

 

In the evening we had, at least for us ,a unique dining expereience. We went to a tapas restaurant recommended by a friend. There are regular tapas and also small tapas ,both hot and cold, on a big toothpick. They are called pintxos, which are traditional Basque tiny tapas. Very good and the four of us managed to have 35 of them. The price for each one is the same and they count the toothpicks for your bill.

Here are the 4 of us at the restaurant.

Phase 3 of our odessey starts on Wednesday when we go to the cruise ship terminal and board the MS Ryndam for 10 days. Sailaway is 4pm and the first port tomorrow is Marseille. So back to France for a day.

 

Monday, 8 September 2014

Barcelona

Getting to the train station in Montpellier was a traffic nightmare at 8:30 am. It took us forever but eventually I got rid of the rental car and we awaited the TGV to Barcelona. It was a very nice and relaxing trip and I had the opportunity to do my reflections on France post. The TGV took 3 hours and it was a short taxi ride to the hotel from the train station. My brother Peter and his wife Janine had arrived a couple of hours earlier flying overnight from Canada. They are not huge fans of Air Canada Rouge.

We met up with them and headed out for the afternoon and evening. First up lunch beside Placa Catalunya then a walk along La Rambla. A very pretty pedestrian oriented place with lots of tourist stores and restaurants.

Jan with the start of La Rambla behind her.

 

 

And Marilyn Monroe is apparently alive and living in an apartment on La Rambla. Who knew?

There is an amazing market just off La Rambla called Mercat de la Boqueria. Filled with all sorts of food. Here is a shot of a candy outlet.

 

Later in the afternoon we went on a walking tour of the old town . Lots of great pictures. This tour had been arranged beforehand and the guide was a very knowledgeable English/ Irish young woman. Among other places we saw the Cathedral of Barcelona. So another church for my readers.

This in the coutyard of the cathedral. There are even swans in there.

Also in one of the old squares a fashion shoot. I tried to talk to her but she couldn't speak English and I couldn't speak Model.

 

Some interesting architecture.

The Placa Reial where our tour started.

Barcelona is an amazing city and I haven't even started on the Gaudi stuff. We go to the Sagrada Familia tomorrow morning for an inside tour then hope to get up to Monserrat in the afternoon.

 

Reflections on our visit to France

We just spent 18 days in France and enjoyed it all. We had a terrific time in Paris with Geof, Jane, and Casey and Jessie. We were sad to see them leave but reality was setting in earlier for them than for us. So off to the next part of our Euro trip. We also enjoyed this next phase and saw lots of very interesting places. But I thought I'd summarize some of my thoughts on France now that we are leaving.

Rumour has it that the bureaucracy is terrible. Now our only encounter with an official was at Immigration when we arrived. He was very pleasant and asked Deen why someone named Géraldine couldn't speak French. Also French people are supposed to be rude. Not in our experience. Certainly in cities and towns people walk about like they do at home in their own little worlds. But everyone we have encountered has been friendly and helpful.

The magic word in France is "Bonjour" . If you start every conversation with that word and try even a little bit of French then people are happy to help. This applies too when you enter a store, a restaurant, an elevator. We've had people notice we were puzzled about something and offered to help. After 6pm you say "Bon Soir" when you first see somebody and "Bonne Soirée" when you leave. Most useful in restaurants.

The Canadian government invested a lot of money to get me to a certain level of bilingualism. Admittedly I've lost some of my ease en français since I retired but after 2 plus weeks here I've become more accustomed to it. I have some difficulty when they speak quickly back to me. But because I've made the effort they are quite understanding of me.

The streets and roads are quite clean and they go to great lengths to keep them that way. There are garbage containers everywhere and people use them. Now you also hear stories of people and their dogs and rampant dog waste on the sidewalks. While there are a few dogs about , they are mostly small and controlled by their owners. Very little in the way of dog waste on the sidewalks but there are times you have to watch your step. But not as bad as we had feared.

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The only real bothersome aspect is all the smoking. They smoke like someone told them it's the cure for lung cancer. However they are not allowed to smoke inside restaurants but can smoke outside on the patios or terraces. Many times we sat inside to avoid the smoke. Other times it was just too nice to sit indoors and so we took our chances. Lots of young people smoking and you see parents smoking around their small children.

The French love their flowers and beautiful gardens are everywhere. Not just the super palaces but ordinary homes too.

 

In previous posts I've complained about the costs of the tolls. However the money raised goes to the upkeep of the roads and they are excellent. The speed limit is 130kms on the autoroutes and lots of people do drive at that or higher. The vehicles are weaving in and out like it's a Grand Prix. On the roads and even in towns drivers are generally courteous. There are a million and one roundabouts and they help the flow of traffic. We used our GPS a lot and that for the most part kept us pointed in the right direction. A few times I had to do the complete roundabout an extra time. The first time we used a toll road I tried to pay with my credit card and apparently your card has to be in the system. My foreign VISA wasn't accepted and we had a bit of traffic backed up behind us while a guy came out to help. Surprisingly no one honked at us. After that we just used cash. It appears to be about 1 euro for every 10 kms. Generally the signage on the roads is good but finding things in towns is a challenge. The street names are small and posted high on the side of a bulding. Very easy to miss and street names seem to change every few blocks. The roads head off every which way and a roundabout could have 5 or 6 exits.

Motorcycles are everywhere and an efficient form of transport. They will often use the sidewalks, pedestrian only streets, and will pass you on the left or right while you are stopped so they can advance a bit.

One of the really cool aspects of French life is the vibrant scenes in town squares or "places". They are filled with restaurants and people sitting out there at tables. Very lively at noon and in the evenings. In some places local musicians will set up hoping for a donation of a euro or two. And lots of pedestian only streets throughout.

Coffee can be a challenge for people used to the North American version of coffee. They tend to drink espresso a lot. If you want something approaching your own NA tastes ask for either a café americano or café allongé. It's basically espresso with hot water added to dilute the espresso. An alternative is café grand crême.

We also have this image of the French as being well dressed. In Paris you are more likely to see men in suits and women similarly dressed but not often. Outside Paris it's very rare. However scarves for men were quite visible again in Paris and rarely outside. A fashion statement as opposed to something for the weather. Lots of males were wearing skinny leg jeans , some of them in red, orange, or yellow. Manpris seem to be popular as well. For the most part however I'd say they dress casually like we do at home. As we got further south more people in T's and shorts and sandals.

One last comment and that concerns prices and consumption taxes. Generally France is a bit more expensive that Canada but you soon get used to the idea of considering a euro to be like a dollar when you are spending it. The VAT is also included in the price of things so what you see is what you pay. The bills you receive show how much VAT is in there. I really wish our governments at home would go this way.

We very much enjoyed our time here and would quite happily return.

 

 

Sunday, 7 September 2014

Untitled

Today we ventured west to the medieval city of Carcassonne. A slow start to the day ,after all it is Sunday here too. We took a drive to the train station so we would know where we are going Monday morning then headed off. On the autoroute west of Montpellier there had been an accident with a transport truck heading east. The westbound lanes were somewhat slow but the eastbound lanes were backed up for many kilometers. We made it to Carcassonne sometime after noon.

The medieval city is in the centre of the town and quite visible for miles around. It reminded us a lot of San Gimignano in northern Italy. The area first came to life about 1000 BC and the current site had a hill camp at about VI BC. In I BC it became a Roman province. About 1200 AD it became a Royal fortress and of course had many changes made to it over the years. These days it is a UNESCO world heritage site visited by many people. It is also full of tourist shops, restaurants, and of course people. A beautiful but crowded day there today.

The Narbonnaise Gate entry built in the XIII century.

 

The walls and remparts.

 

La Basilique des Saints Nazarze and Celse built in the XI and XIV centuries.

 

The Comtal Chateau and inner remparts built in the XII century.

 

The tilt yard and external remparts from the XIII century.

 

Finally a shot of the surrounding area. You might be able to see in the distance the ancient white Roman windmills, astonishingly enough still generating electricity.

And apparently they are tough on kids who misbehave.

Today is our last full day in France. We have enjoyed it all very much. However medieval cities are not meant for car traffic. As we were driving out this morning the radio was playing "Highway to Hell".

We head to the train station in the morning for a TGV (Train Grand Vitesse) to Barcelona. Deen is happy we will be dropping off the rental car. In Barcelona we are looking forward to meeting up with my brother Peter and his wife Janine for the rest of our Euro vacation.